6mm Wargaming

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Last updated

21st September 2014

6mm Wargaming

Step by step instructions for basing 6mm buildings


This page is my step by step guide for basing 6mm (1/300th) buildings. I use the Spearhead sized basing scheme (which is 90x90mm square) which I think works well. Usually you can get 2-3 buildings onto a base along with a few trees and foliage. My roads are separate because I found there wasn't much room on the bases if there were roads as well.

These can be made in batches of 6-10 bases at a time, which is much quicker than individually. For double sized bases, you can use the same techniques.

The materials used

The materials I used for this project are:

  • 1/300th Buildings

  • Cardboard bases cut into 90x90mm squares.

  • A tube of Selley's No More Gaps (which is a rubbery sealer use by home decorators)

  • Cheap brown (Umber) poster paint for the bases

  • Cream paint (I mixed some white and yellow paint together) for drybrushing the bases

  • Flock (I use a mix of static grass and woodlands scenics)

  • Trees. A mix of Woodlands scenics trees, K and M, and other brands

  • Different coloured foilage from Woodlands scenics clump foliage

  • Pipe cleaners covered in flock(used for hedges)

  • PVA Glue

  • Miscellaneous scenic items such as fences, walls, gates, animals, crops etc

6mm Wargaming

Click on the thumbnails to see the full sized image.

Getting started

The buildings used for these examples came mainly from Irregular and a local company called Military Miniatures (now Battlefront). Unfortunately Battlefront do not sell these building anymore which is a pity because they are very nice.

For the basing I prefer to use Cardboard but you could also use thin MDF, Plywood, Plastic or metal. I like using cardboard because it is cheap and readly available, but the downside is that it is not as strong as other materials and prone to warping.

The Woodlands scenic trees are made from their packs where you get separate armatures and flock. This is very time consuming and I wouldn't do this again but their premade trees tend to fall apart, and need to be soaked them in watered down PVA, to seal them properly. The hedges are made from dark green pipe cleaners which have been flocked. They are nice and easy to make and quite effective.

Mounting the buildings

Once the buildings have been painted, they are glued onto the cardboard along with any additional pieces like woodlands tree bases, fences/walls and any other raised parts. This is so I can use the filler to build up any edges or gaps around the buildings etc.

For the tree bases I paint them white, so that it is the same colour as the filler, for when I paint the bases.

Texturing the bases

The next part is to apply the No more Gaps to the bases and texture them. You don't need apply it on the whole base, but only in areas where your planning to leave some of the ground showing through. It can also be used to fill any gaps around the base and help build up the base around the buildings and trees, to reduce any visible lines.

Painting the bases

For this step, you can use the cheap paint from a craft store which is watered down slightly so it flows into the cracks better and only covers the base with a thin coat. This also helps to highlight the texture of the filler. This may take some experimenting to get the right consistency and also you may want to try different shades of brown depending on the climatic region.

I used to use expensive modelling paint and inks for the bases, but I found that craft or poster paint is fine and about 1/10th of the price.

Drybrushing the bases

In this step take some cheap cream paint and use a large old brush to lightly drybrush the base. This helps to highlight the texturing and and different shading to the base. I find that cream is better than white for drybrushing, as white is a bit too stark. Alternatively you could use a much lighter shade of your base colour.


For the flock, use a mixture of static grass and Woodlands Scenics fine flock. You can mix together a number of different shades, and then use PVA to glue the flock on.

You may want to leave some patches where there might be paths, or under trees to allow some of the ground to be visible.

Detailing the bases

Now glue the trees on to the bases and cut up the hedges and glue them on. I also glue any extra foilage onto the bases to represent bushes or hedges. This is also useful to help hide any defects like bad joins or a poor paint job.

I usually put 2-3 trees on per base (although it can make it difficult to fit vehicles and figures on) and I also put hedges and foilage on 2-3 base edges. This depends on whether or not I plan to use the bases in a town or standalone, such as a farm.

The finishing touches

Now I touch up any mistakes and paint the edges of the bases black. This helps to hide the edges but you could paint them green or brown. Some people also paint the underneath of their base to help prevent warping but I have not had much success with this.

Lastly I spray varnish the base and building with a couple of thick coats. This helps to protect the paint work on the building and also to seal the flock onto the base.

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More pictures during the different stages of construction

The first picture shows an overview of the base just after the paint has been applied, and you can see the stuff I used for crops. I got it from a model shop and I think its from Busch or Noch. The second photo shows a close up of the bases once the paint is dry